JULY 2006 IN THE KITCHEN ARTICLE

SUMMERTIME MEANS BASIL

There are many scents I associate with summer: freshly mown grass, ethereal honeysuckle wafting from the hedgerow in the evening air, acrid tomato leaves that stain my hands as I stake the plants. But the scent I long for, the scent that tells me summer is really here, is the sweet aroma of basil, the herb of summer. Basil has a special place in my heart, for it was the first herb I grew, back in my teenage years. A fellow parishioner and family friend gave me a few Italian basil plants for our family garden. My summer routine then was to wake up at daybreak and make myself breakfast before I biked to my job as gardener for our church. I can still remember the wonder of tearing a few basil leaves into my scrambled eggs, and having that intense, clove- like fragrance rise up from the pan as I stirred. (I now know that this is a great way to discover the flavor of any new herb: toss some chopped leaves into eggs as you scramble them, and the neutral taste of the eggs will allow the herb’s essence to shine.)

It wasn’t until Phil and I put in our first herb garden, many years later, that I learned that basil varieties extended far beyond the classic Italian basil to include lemon, lime, purple, cinnamon and Thai basils, to name just a few. A whole new world of flavors awaits those who venture into growing these aromatic cousins to classic basil. For the sake of simplicity I tend to divide the basils into two categories. The Italian and Greek basils make up one category, with their glossy, pointed green leaves and well- known spicy- sweet aroma. Genovese basil is here, the herb for pesto, as is Napoletano basil, with frilly, lettuce- like leaves that are large enough to serve as wrappers for morsels of grilled fish or fresh mozzarella.

What are known as “scented basils” make up the second category; these really bring out the plant collector in me. Sweet and citrusy lemon and lime basils, clove- scented Thai basils with showy magenta flowers, and copper- tinged purple leaved basils will brighten both the landscape and the kitchen. Try tucking a few of these ornamental and useful plants in your flower beds, or plant some in pots to brighten your patio.

Whether grown from seed or transplants, basil is easy to grow as long as a few rules are observed. First, don’t plant it out too early! Basil is a tropical plant and needs reliably warm days and nights in order to thrive; if put out too early the plants will simply sulk, and you run the risk of losing them to a late frost. Here in the Valley we plant our basil seed and transplants in late May, just to be on the safe side.

Second, make sure to give your plants full sun, ample water and regular feedings with organic compost tea, liquid seaweed or fish emulsion. Mulching with grass clippings or bark will help retain moisture and discourage weeds.

Third and most important, don’t let your plants go to seed! Remember, the mission of all plants is to flower, set seed and thus reproduce. Your mission as an herb gardener is to thwart this natural process for as long as possible with plants that you are raising for their leaves, such as basil. Clipping developing seed heads off regularly will allow the plant’s energy to focus on growing more leaves- and more leaves mean more pesto! Your regular harvests will give you plenty of leaves for trying some of our favorite recipes below.

Confetti Basil Butter

1/3 cup green and purple basil leaves in combination, torn
1 teaspoon garlic chives (regular chives can be substituted)
1 large garlic clove, chopped
½ cup softened butter, cut into ½” thick slices
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Process basil leaves, chives and garlic in the work bowl of a food processor until coarsely chopped. Add butter and salt and pepper and process until combined. Spoon into a custard cup and refrigerate, or place on a square of waxed paper and roll into a log; refrigerate. Terrific with corn on the cob!

Lemon Basil Shrimp

1 pound medium shrimp, shelled
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
¼ cup white wine
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Crushed red pepper flakes, to taste
2- 3 garlic cloves, finely diced
¼ cup (packed) lemon basil leaves

Heat butter and olive oil in large saucepan over medium heat until butter is melted. Add white wine, lemon juice and pepper flakes and simmer 5 minutes to let flavors combine. Add shrimp and garlic and sauté for 2- 3 minutes. Cut lemon basil leaves into thin strips and add to shrimp. Saute an additional 3 minutes or so until the shrimp is pink and opaque. Serve in a wide- rimmed bowl with the juices poured around the shrimp, and have plenty of crusty bread on hand for dipping. This dish can also be served over pasta or rice.

Black Bean and Rice Salad

Fresh lime basil has a vibrant, citrusy flavor that marries well with the zesty flavors of this healthful salad. This is a great dish to make ahead and bring to a picnic.

1 15 ½ ounce can of black beans, drained and well rinsed
1 ½ cups cooked rice
2 scallions, chopped (including green tops)
2 plum tomatoes, diced
2 jalapeno chiles, seeded and finely diced
2 tablespoons finely diced celery
2 tablespoons diced fresh lime basil

Dressing

1 garlic clove, minced
Juice of 1 lime
1/3 cup olive oil
¼ teaspoon cumin
1/8 teaspoon chile powder, or to taste

In a large bowl, gently combine the black beans, rice, vegetables and lime basil.

For the dressing, mix the garlic, lime juice, cumin and chile powder in a small bowl. Drizzle the olive oil into the bowl in a steady stream, whisking to blend.

Add the dressing to the salad, tossing gently. Chill in the refrigerator for several hours to allow flavors to blend.

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